Thursday 24 September

An early start – pack up and into the spa again. After convincing Liam to get out we set off for William Creek. A few stops along the way including Beresford siding (big dam and nice camp sites and lots of bones), and various other Ghan ruins.

William Creek was bustling. Quite a few people from Coward Springs with most heading across to Coober Pedy. The inside of the pub is covered in all sorts of stuff. Made a donation to the RFDS and took some photos. Liam had two icecreams.

Chatted with Ian and family (on ExplorOz) about possibly going to Haligan Bay but decided it was too hard. They headed over to Coober Pedy and we kept going north (via the rubbish dump).

Along the way we detoured via a 4WD PAR to Old Peake Telegraph Station. This was worth a look. The operators and pastoralists did it hard. Lunch in the shade of a tree then through to Algebukina Bridge.

An impressive piece of engineering. A look around, some photos then across the Oodnadatta Track into the northern most part of the Kidman Peake Station. Camped right on the waterhole.

No luck with yabbying although lots of shrimp that are almost worth eating. Leaving the net in overnight.

A campfire using Ghan sleepers and a beautiful sunset over the water. Such a change from earlier in the week.

Wednesday 23 September

A beautiful, still morning.

The absolute highlight – a 29 degree hot artesian spa. After a hour we came out waterlogged but very happy. So good to get the dust out of everything.

We went for a walk along the old Ghan track, collected a dog spike as a souvenir and patted the camels.

The weather was lovely. Not a breeze and 24 degrees.

We drove the 6kms back to the Mound Springs. There was a bearded dragon in the middle of the road so we did a Uy. Liam patted its tail then gave it a push to get it off the road. It also did a four foot drift as it scuttled under a bush.

The Mound Springs are amazing. Water coming up out of the Great Artesian Basin over thousands of years has formed small hills with an oasis developing wherever the water flows. Fish, snails, algae and isopods everywhere. We spent a couple of hours looking around.

Back to Coward Springs and another hour in the spa for Liam.

A roast chicken in the Cobb. A few hands of snap and bed.

Tuesday 22 September

The weather had settled down so we decided to set out for Stuart Creek again. A slight hiccup first though. The second battery that runs the fridge had finally died. The Roxby Downs AutoPro came to the rescue – An Exide Extreme in the right size, terminals in the right places and a good price. Liam enjoyed an extra hour of morning TV as I put the new battery in.

By the time we got back to Andamooka, the wind has picked up. A quick noodle, into the car and onto the Farina track that goes through Mulgaria Station via Stuart Creek.

Half an hour in we couldn’t see the bonnet because of the massive dust storm. Luckily the GPS (Garmin 760 running ShonkyMaps) had enough detail that we could follow the track through dunes and claypans.

Stuart Creek wasn’t what we expected – not a little old abandoned opal field but instead a collection of massive mullock heaps dug by bulldozers and excavators. We tried to get out but the wind stopped us. The car was covered in dust and mud – Liam’s window was completed covered.

We didn’t hang around. The track to join up to the Borefield Road was even less obvious. Again took a punt on the GPS and got some reassurance from having the Satphone at hand. At one intersection there was a tiny sign that said No Public Access but we had asked at the Andamooka Post Office where the lady sort of said it was ok. Not only was it a dust storm but it had rained a few days back. Dad did a four wheel drift :) (Liam’s highlight for the day). We finally found the dingo fence, figured out which gate to go through and eventually came out onto the Borefield Road. A relief.

The dust storm hadn’t got any better. We couldn’t see Lake Eyre South from either lookout, Curdimurka Siding was a set of photos out of the window.

At this stage a cabin at William Creek was looking to be the safest bet but I vaguely recalled that Coward Springs had cabins. Turns out that they do have a cabin – the restored engine driver’s cottage from Ghan days but not for accommodation. At the last minute before we were going to call William Creek, Liam found a sheltered campsite. We pitched the tent, the wind dropped, ate spag bog and went to bed.

Monday 21 September

Woke up to a beautiful morning, quick brekky and then into the huge mullock heaps noodling. Unlike White Cliffs, they mine in Andamooka with a bulldozer! They dig huge trenches as long as four buses and very deep. We founds lots of gypsum again but no opals. A few drops of rain for 10 seconds.

We went back to the campsite to pack up and the wind had started. The toilet tent had blown down as had the table and chairs. Quick pack up then to the public noodling next to the playground.

Liam found his first opal within 30 seconds and then lots more. By this stage the wind was really bad but Liam persevered and found some more very nice opals.

There weren’t too many places to eat indoors and the Mobil servo didn’t start serving lunch until 12. The huuuuge man inside was pretty sure the weather was going to get worse and he was right :(

A retreat to Roxby Downs was looking good. We rang the motel and they had rooms ($140:() but its was much better than the Andamooka Hotel at $90 for a tin shed.

The sand was blowing across the road as we drove back.

The motel had a flat screen tv :) and a great shower to get rid of the dust so all was well with the world again.

Lunch at the pub was ordinary, the library was good (Adrian) ok (Liam) so back to the motel. The wind continued to get worse and it was a full-on dust storm.

Chinese for dinner; Top Gear on the tv and an early night.

Monday 21 September

Woke up to a beautiful morning, quick brekky and then into the huge mullock heaps noodling. Unlike White Cliffs, they mine in Andamooka with a bulldozer! They did huge trenches as long as four buses and very deep. We founds lots of gypsum again but no opals. A few drops of rain for 10 seconds.

We went back to the campsite to pack up and the wind had started. The toilet tent had blown down as had the table and chairs. Quick pack up then to the public noodling next to the playground.

Liam found his first opal within 30 seconds and then lots more J By this stage the wind was really bad but Liam persevered and found some more very nice opals.

There weren’t too many places to eat indoors and the Mobil servo didn’t start serving lunch until 12. The huuuuge man inside was pretty sure the weather was going to get worse and he was right:(

A retreat to Roxby Downs was looking good. We rang the motel and they had rooms ($140:() but its was much better than the Andamooka Hotel at $90 for a tin shed.

The sand was blowing across the road as we drove back.

The motel had a flat screen tv :) and a great shower to get rid of the dust so all was well with the world again.

Lunch at the pub was ordinary, the library was good (Adrian) ok (Liam) so back to the motel. The wind continued to get worse and it was a full-on dust storm.

Chinese for dinner; Top Gear on the tv and an early night.

Sunday 20 September

Beds were great at the Royal Hotel.

Set out at 8:15am and drove to Port Augusta for breakfast at Hungry Jacks.

Stopped at the Arid Lands Botanical Gardens lookout but not much to see (Liam says “it sucks”)

Woomera is very cool but Liam wishes that he could launch one of the many rockets or fly in a plane. We went to the museum and the Rocket display. Lunch was at Breen Park where they had lots of birds including a cocky who said hello and a peacock with a 2m tail.

Roxby Downs was dull. The Olympic Dam tour was booked out so we got fuel and kept going to Andamooka.

Andamooka is certainly different to Roxby Downs!! Nothing planned here!! Just sort of happened I guess.

The lady in the Post Office (which doubles as an Information Centre) was sort of useful. She suggested that we could noodle for opals near a creek and camp in the dunes but when we drove to where she suggested it wasn’t nice. We checked out the other campground that was the car park to the playground. It was terrible!! We decided to drive further along the track going to Stuarts Creek to see if there were any good spots to camp and noodle. We took the track to the airstrip and came across some great mullock heaps (no opals though) and some nice camping spots amongst the dunes. Probably where the Post Office lady suggested but we didn’t go far enough the first time.

Camping with a fire and with Butter Chicken & Peas Paneer for dinner is very good. A few drops of rain, a purple sunset and a bit windy but a great way to finish the day. NextG coverage is excellent amongst the dunes so an on-location blog post!

Saturday 19 September

Left home 8:30am

Heavy rain around Ballarat (11C and driving rain)

Stopped in Ararat for Maccas and final shop

Next stop Pink Lakes
Liam says “It’s PINK!”

Saw the Overland at Kiata then Bordertown

Straight thru to Fullarton Rd Adelaide for fuel and onto Crystal Brook – arrived 7:40pm local time

Only accommodation is 2 pubs and a caravan park

Stayed at the Royal Hotel ($40) and had dinner in the restaurant. Good food. Bit of noise from next door.